DELUXE TRAVELLER

Sate, especially of the fish variety, is one Bali’s best-known snacks

Bali has in recent years evolved into a hotbed for innovative fare from around the world, which is to be expected given its reputation as a first-class tourist destination.

While it can often be easier after a laid-back day exploring the island to opt for in-room service or the nearby beachfront barbecue joint, a good mix of local haunts and high-end eateries will introduce you to the Indonesian side of Bali’s vibrant food scene.

We’ve selected some of the best local eateries.

Wake-up call

Warung Mak Beng is renowned for its delicious nasi ikan)

Life springs into action early on the Island of the Gods, but don’t let that stop you venturing out for a mid-morning bite. One of Bali’s best-known pre-lunch dishes, nasi ikan is a simple serving of fried fish, rice and soup – it is however far tastier than it sounds, especially at the legendary Warung Mak Beng.

Situated in the southern seaside town of Sanur, this modest establishment is probably one of the island’s worst kept secrets. Locals, and increasingly tourists, flock religiously to the almost 80-year-old cafe en masse every day for an early lunch fix, so make sure you get there early to avoid queuing in the midday sun. If you’re very lucky, you might even get a seat.

Sophisticated street food

Sambal is a staple of Indonesian cuisine

At the other end of the ‘street food’ spectrum is Bambu. Tucked away in a quiet corner of Seminyak, this tranquil escape offers upscale takes the on types of dishes you would usually find in a local warung.

Operated by team behind Seminyak’s trailblazing La Lucciola, Bambu has been design with a keen eye on local aesthetics and an abundance of water features that lend a relaxed, tropical aura to the restaurant.

Expect to be served satay, pancakes, prawns and sambal alongside other classic Indonesian dishes with a modern twist. Don’t leave without trying the celebrated pandan crepes with toasted coconut ice cream for dessert.

Sangsaka for your supper

Balinese-style short ribs served with sambal sauce

Another contender for one of the best Indonesian additions to the Seminyak food scene in recent years, Sangsaka does away with the archetypal Balinese interiors in favour of a sleek, minimalist design, which complements the creative food on offer.

Upon arrival, you can choose to soak up the atmosphere with a couple of cocktails at the moodily-lit bar, or head straight to the 55-seater restaurant to tuck into a grilled wagyu rump, stewed duck or the short ribs served with coconut and fern.

While the focus lies on quality chops of meats prepared with an Indonesian flavour, the nine-dish tasting menu, which rotates daily, is also highly recommended for those looking for a deeper introduction to contemporary Balinese cuisine.

Seafood secret

This traditional Balinese satay of minced tuna is served on an aromatic lemongrass skewer

We’d be amiss not to include at least one seafood establishment here. Sure, you can find the Formica and plastic chair setups serving catches of the day on almost any stretch of beach in Bali, but few scratch the taste itch quite like Lesehan Sari Baruna.

Located on the east coast close to Candidasa, this open-air warung, as with many of the local cafes, specialises in one particular dish: sate lilit. Made from minced tuna combined with caramelised palm sugar and coconut shavings, it’s served with green beans, rice and fishball broth, as well as the mandatory peanuts and sambal matah. There are no reservations. In fact, there’s not even a phone number. It’s stull worth the risk of showing up with an appetite.

Pigging out

Bali’s famed dish, babi guling, is served in a variety of ways throughout warungs across the island

Given the adoration that the Balinese and tourists hold for babi guling, we’d be drifting into incredibly contentious territory by singling out only one place to taste the world-famous roast pig.

Fortunately we can blame Anthony Bourdain for choosing Ubud’s Ibu Oka. Being a babi guling island institution is no mean feat, but seeing as the cafe packs out with patrons from all walks of life – including the celebrated chef a couple of years ago – on a daily basis, it must be doing something right!

Elsewhere on the island, Babi Guling Pak Malen, situated on the Seminyak’s Sunset road, is often mentioned in the same breath as Ibu Oka. A little less touristy, it’s still essential to get here before the lunchtime herds if you want to indulge in the complete experience of pork meat, crispy skin, sate, snake bean salad and soup with jackfruit.

The weird and wonderful

Grilled sago worms (ancruk) can be found on the street in many parts of Bali

 

For the adventurous, there are plenty of opportunities to savour new and unusual delicacies during a stay on Bali. Here we highlight a few of the more unusual amuse-bouche.

• Bulung: a salad comprising seaweed, coconut shavings and fried nuts, it can be eaten with a tuna broth or chilli paste. It’s especially popular as a snack among local fisherman communities
• Lindung: Not a meal for the squeamish, this dish is made up of freshwater eels fried with galangal and ginger. You can also eat them deep fried in batter as an afternoon snack
• Ancruk: Fried or roasted with spices, these chunky larvae are usually sourced from the soil beneath banana trees and are considered a key source of protein in certain rural areas on the island